By Ankit Kashyap | tripsandmemories.com
Introduction: The City That Called Me
People often speak of Jodhpur with a kind of reverence, as if it were more myth than place. A city draped in blue, standing proudly at the edge of the Thar Desert. They call it the Blue City, the Sun City, a royal canvas splashed with vibrant hues and ancient stories. But for me, it was something more—a color, a feeling, a childhood dream painted in shades of indigo.
Blue has always been my favorite color. So maybe it was destiny. Or maybe just coincidence. Either way, I found myself on a train from Udaipur, heading toward this legendary place with no plans, no bookings, just a heart full of curiosity.
Midnight in Jodhpur: Arrival Without a Plan
It was around midnight when I arrived at Jodhpur Junction. The station was quiet, almost asleep, with the occasional chaiwala humming softly or the distant whistle of a departing train. The air was cool, surprisingly gentle for a desert city.
Since this was a spontaneous detour, I hadn’t booked a hotel. I walked to the railway inquiry counter, hoping for a miracle. Fortunately, there was one retiring room available. It wasn’t fancy, but after a long week of travel, it felt like heaven. I dropped my bag, collapsed on the bed, and within minutes, I was asleep.
Morning Rituals: Cutting Chai and a Paper Itinerary
The next morning, I woke up refreshed, extending my stay for another night. I stepped outside the station and headed to a tea stall for a steaming glass of cutting chai. There’s something incredibly comforting about railway station chai. It’s not gourmet, but it’s honest—strong, sweet, and perfectly familiar.
Chai in one hand and a cigarette in the other, I scribbled a simple itinerary for the day on the back of an old ticket stub:
- Mehrangarh Fort
- Jaswant Thada
- Umaid Bhawan Palace
- A proper Marwari thali
That was enough adventure for one day.
Raghu: My Auto Driver and Accidental Guide
I hailed an auto outside the station, and that’s how I met Raghu. Middle-aged, mustached, and endlessly chatty. He agreed to be my driver for the day and immediately insisted that we start with breakfast. “First food, then fort,” he declared.
He took me to a small street-side eatery for pyaaz kachori. Freshly fried, spicy, flaky—exactly what you need to start the day in Rajasthan. As I bit into the warm kachori, I could feel the flavors explode—onions, garam masala, and that unmistakable Rajasthani punch.
Mehrangarh Fort: A Fortress in the Sky
We reached Mehrangarh Fort around 8:30 AM. The gates open at 9, so we had time to wait. Raghu, meanwhile, slipped into storytelling mode, sharing tales of his family, his life in Jodhpur, and random gossip about the royal family. I nodded, smiled, and tried to listen, but my eyes were locked on the massive fort ahead.
At 9 sharp, the gates opened, and I entered the world of kings.
The Mehrangarh Fort is not just a structure; it’s a symphony in sandstone. Rising 400 feet above the city, it looks like it was carved directly from the rock it stands on. Every corridor, every window, every crevice breathes history.
I chose not to hire a guide. Instead, I let the fort speak to me. The walls are lined with plaques and boards offering detailed histories of each room, hall, and gate. If you’re even mildly interested in history, you won’t need anyone to hold your hand.
Fast Facts:
- Built by Rao Jodha in 1459
- Entry: ₹60 (Indians), ₹400 (Foreigners)
- Camera Fee: ₹100
- Timings: 9 AM – 5 PM daily
- Audio Guides available: ₹600 (Intl), ₹400 (Students)
Legend says that a hermit, Cheeria Nathji, was forced to vacate the hill to make way for the fort. In retaliation, he cursed the fort with water scarcity. To counter the curse, Rao Jodha built a house for the hermit and constructed a temple inside the fort—Chamunda Mata Temple.
Chamunda Mata Temple: Stillness in Stone
As I walked toward the temple, I felt a strange pull. Not spiritual, exactly, but emotional. The temple isn’t grand, but it holds weight—a silent reverence that slows you down.
Chamunda Mata is the family deity of the Rathores. Locals come here to pray, and even the wind seems to whisper in respectful tones. I paused, clicked a few photos, and just stood there, breathing it all in.
Echoes of the Past: Inside the Fort
Mehrangarh is built in such a way that you follow a specific route. Deviating from it could lead you into endless nooks and staircases. Inside, I saw palanquins, weapons, royal costumes, intricate frescoes, and rooms with mirrored ceilings that felt like stepping into a Rajasthani fairytale.
Traditional musicians played folk tunes at corners, their bright turbans and joyful beats adding life to the stone walls. I stopped often, not just to listen, but to feel. This fort is not dead history—it’s very much alive.
Did you know? Christopher Nolan shot a scene from The Dark Knight Rises here. Batman in Rajasthan. Who would’ve thought?
And oh, the view. From the ramparts, the entire city looked like a blue sea shimmering under the desert sun. A sight I will never forget.
Jaswant Thada: A Poem in Marble
At around 1:45 PM, I found Raghu again—waiting patiently but visibly annoyed. He didn’t say much and just motioned for me to get in. Our next stop was Jaswant Thada.
Built in 1899 by Maharaja Sardar Singh in memory of his father, this cenotaph is known as the Taj Mahal of Mewar. Made entirely of white marble, it glows in the sunlight and offers the kind of peace you rarely find at tourist spots.
The site is also a cremation ground for the Marwar royals. Despite this, it doesn’t feel morbid. In fact, it feels serene—like time itself takes a deep breath here.
The delicate lattice work, the paintings of former kings, the Mughal-style domes—everything about Jaswant Thada feels balanced and quiet.
Umaid Bhawan Palace: Time Travel in Luxury
Our final destination for the day was the Umaid Bhawan Palace. Built between 1929 and 1943, it’s one of the world’s largest private residences. A part of it is still occupied by the royal family, another part is a luxury hotel, and the remaining section is open to the public.
If you love vintage cars and antique clocks, you’ll love it here. The collection is extraordinary, showcasing timepieces and vehicles that look like they belong in a Wes Anderson film.
It took me barely an hour to see everything, but the memory will stay much longer.
A Marwari Thali to Remember
By now, my stomach was screaming. I asked Raghu to drop me at a local eatery famous for its Marwari thali. What followed was a feast:
- Gatte ki sabzi
- Ker sangri
- Bajre ki roti
- Dal baati churma
- Achar, papad, and buttermilk
Each bite was a celebration. Though I follow a particular diet and couldn’t try everything, the meal left a lasting impression. Rajasthan doesn’t do subtle when it comes to food. It goes all in.
Other Places Worth Exploring
If you have more time in Jodhpur, add these to your list:
- Mandore Gardens: Former capital of Marwar with historic temples and cenotaphs
- Osian Temples: Ancient Jain and Hindu temples
- Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park: Great for nature walks
- Kailana Lake: Perfect for sunsets
- Clock Tower & Sardar Market: For spices, handicrafts, and local color
- Balsamand Lake: A calm picnic spot
Leaving Jodhpur: Onward to Jaisalmer
Back at my room, I held another ticket. Another unplanned journey. This time to Jaisalmer – The Golden City.
If you ever plan to visit Rajasthan, come during winter. The weather is gentle, perfect for late-night walks and roadside chai. After sunset, most tourist sites close due to superstition, but the streets don’t sleep. The breeze changes. The city speaks. And somehow, it feels like a place you’ve known in another life.
That’s the magic of Rajasthan. It doesn’t just show you places; it shows you pieces of yourself.
Drop Your Thoughts Below!
See you soon with more stories, more memories, and many more journeys.
Until then, take care, keep smiling.
— Ankit Kashyap